Prophylactic self-isolation for skin rejuvenation. Day 47th.

Self-sufficient skin rejuvenation. Part 3.

Lets kick off a forthright concept of “good cream” and “bad cream” and just continue going deeper in l’earning about the essence of a cosmetic products. We earn what we l’earn, right?:)

Here is the composition of the real cosmetic product, body and face oil, supposed to be as natural as possible – 96% of the ingredients are of natural origin! Lets dive deep into it and see what is really what:) The ingredients, which we will discuss here today are marked with numbers from 1 to 8:

1. Contains at least 96% natural ingredients

That means, at least 4% are not natural. Therefore, it is important to identify and l’earn about not natural, synthetic ingredients some basic knowledge because only in this way it is possible to decide for yourself: “Do I really need THIS product, or lets search for other (or lets make my own at home:))”. It is something that we would apply to ourselves daily for good, not for the fight between vital skin and unknown chemicals, right?

2. No preservatives

In a body oil composition it is very predictable to have no preservatives, because the product does not contain water. Only water (as a vital solution) creates such a great possibility for microorganisms, germs, etc., to grow.

3. Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

  • Skin conditioning agent and emollient
  • Is it natural? No
  • Is it safe? Safe in the present practices of use
  • Is it of natural origin? Yes, small part of it is of natural origin, however the initial natural raw material no longer exists in the coco-caprylate/caprate.
  • How was it obtained? (In a chemical language): The mixture of esters obtained from the reaction of the fatty alcohols derived from coconut alcohol with a mixture of caprylic acid and capric acid. It is a mixture of esters of coconut alcohol with caprylic acid and capric acid (1):

Blog author’s NOTE: Coconut oil contains caprylic acid (5-11%) and capric acid (4-9%) (2). But, as it is clearly written in the description, only esters of Coconut Alcohol are of coconut origin. That means, that in the coco-caprylate/caprate production caprylic and capric acids are not of natural origin (they are synthetic). It is most likely to be truth, because concentration of caprylic and capric acids in coconuts is small and therefore the overall production of coco-caprylate/caprate substance would be irrational and unprofitable.

4. Dicaprylyl ether /Dioctyl ether or Cetiol® OE/

  • Emollient, Solvent and Skin conditioner. Provides a dry and non-greasy feel to the skin, has fast spreading capabilities, and thus facilitates the spreadability of many slow spreading ingredients (like pure vegetable oils or oil extracts).
  • Is it natural? No
  • Is it of natural origin? Yes, it is derived from caprylic acid, a fatty acid found in coconut or palm kernel oils. However the initial natural raw material no longer exists in the dicaprylyl ether. (In a chemical language): The fatty acids from the oils are esterified and then distilled to separate the capryl alcohol.  Etherification (dehydration) is then done to the capryl alcohol to form dicaprylyl ether and water.
  • Is it safe? Assumed as non-irritating to skin. But, the product has not been tested for reproductive, developmental, etc. toxicity (3, 4, 5, 6).

5. Tocopherol

Generally assumed as vitamin E, a well-known antioxidant

6. Hypericum perforatum

  • Hypericum perforatum is the Latin name of common Saint John’s wort.
  • Is it safe? If the plant is used for cosmetic or medical purposes, intense UV-exposure should be avoided because the plant can cause photo-toxicity and/or skin sensibility (7). That means avoid to apply during late spring, summer and early autumn. Hypericum perforatum plant is created by Nature to be safe ONLY during winter time when Sun exposure is minimal.

Hypericum perforatum plant is created by Nature to be safe ONLY during winter time when Sun exposure is minimal.

7. Benzyl salicylate, linalool, limonene, citronellol, geraniol

All are fragrances. All of them could be of natural origin, however, in this composition they are synthetic because not marked with (*).

8. Natural origin

  • Natural origin does not mean the certain ingredient in the composition of the cosmetic product is natural

References:

  1. Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmetics. Fiume MM et al, 2013 and 2015 at https://www.cir-safety.org/supplementaldoc/safety-assessment-alkyl-esters-used-cosmetics
  2. Handbook-of-Pharmaceutical-Excipients 6th Edition by Rowe, R.C., Sheskey, P. and Quinn, M., 2009
  3. Cetiol ® Safety Data Sheet at https://doc.chemipan.org/home/images/chemipan/document/product/certificate/CC/CC0316-Cetiol-OE/CC0316-MSDS-Cetiol-OE.pdf
  4. Web publication https://www.tomsofmaine.com/our-promise/ingredients/dicaprylyl-ether
  5. Web publication https://www.persistencemarketresearch.com/market-research/dicaprylyl-ether-market.asp
  6. Web publication https://cosmetics.specialchem.com/inci/dicaprylyl-ether
  7. European Union herbal monograph on Hypericum perforatum L., herba (traditional use), European Medicines Agency, 2018, at https://www.ema.europa.eu/en/documents/herbal-monograph/draft-european-union-herbal-monograph-hypericum-perforatum-l-herba-traditional-use-revision-1_en.pdf

To be continued…

P.S. Warm thanks to a special friend for editing

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